Wednesday, December 23, 2015

Richards Bay arrival in South Africa Nov 2015






We made it to Richards Bay South Africa at about 2AM on a stormy night.  We rode the fast current down from Mozambique but turned in too early and hit the countercurrent close to shore and had to fight the wind and current to get to the entrance to the bay.  With both engines going, we could barely make 3 knots!  It took us hours to cover the last few miles and a lightning storm swirled around to the south and east of us as we made slow progress.

When we contacted Port Control for permission to enter the harbor, we were told that we had to clear the channel within a few minutes as a big ship was coming in. Our fellow American, Sean, in the little yacht was just ahead of us and we relayed the info to him to get clear of the channel.  He has no engine and his sail had just ripped an hour earlier in the storm we were watching.  He pulled out of the channel and anchored next to us for the night.  That's him below the morning after we arrived in South Africa.
The docks at Tuzi Gazi Marina in Richards Bay, South Africa.  These docks buckle and go underwater when the wind blows too much.  The docks aren't secured at the ends and I could stand on shore and watch the entire dock of boats move one way and then the other.
We backed into our slip and this was the view of the restaurants on the shore.  The water got pretty shallow in front of us and we would've needed a high tide to get out.
Low tide and the water got pretty skinny. Our slip was just this side of that deep sea fishing boat you can see at the end of the dock.  We moved to a concrete wharf at the international mooring area next to the marina.  Free dockage, power and water!
We went with others to the Zululand Yacht Club on a Friday night as they are reputed to have huge T-bone steaks for cheap and they put on this Zulu dancers show.
YOLO tied to the concrete wharf at the international mooring side.  Much more secure when the wind blew.
We took a tour to the iSimangaliso Wetlands to see hippos, crocs and birds.  This elephant head was on the roof of the information bureau office.
And this plastic hippo was on the front porch of the Tourist Information office.
This safari vehicle picked us up in town and brought us to the pontoon boat we'd use for the wetlands tour.
Jason and the rest of our group heading to the Shaka Barge for our tour.  Charles, the crew from Saol Eile and his wife are the couple in front.  They arranged the tour and we just tagged along for the day.
Cute animal prints on the seat cushions.
We left from the old dredger harbor and this is one of the old dredgers.
My first hippo sighting was right there in the water where we got on the boat. Talk about a wide load!
This little crocodile was sunning himself on an old water pipe in the harbor, too.
The golden weaver birds are a pretty bright yellow and they weave those round nests with their beaks.  If the female doesn't like the nest, she'll rip it off and the male has to redo another one.
Hippos in the estuary waters.  The river is blocked from the ocean these days so the water doesn't get flushed anymore.  Hippos eat 60 kg of grass a day and what goes in must come out, so you can imagine the nutrients in that water!
White-faced whistler ducks parading on the sands of the low water in the wetlands.
A big croc just sitting on the sand with his jaw open.  The animals all live in close proximity to each other but there isn't much action between them.  Live and let live until one of them gets hungry.
The hippos formed big groups and slept in the shallow water. They tried to find a back to lay their head on to sleep, but they can just put their heads in the water and they raise up and breathe automatically without having to wake up.
This kingfisher is the largest in South Africa.
This Goliathe Heron was stretching his neck out while hunting for small fish.
This is what he usually looks like.  He is the biggest heron in the country.  If you look closely, you can see the little fish he caught in his beak.
The heron standing tall.  They don't mind the boats getting close as they are used to them and they know the boats push the fish towards them.
A sleepy-eyed hippo front on.
The big groups of hippos are probably laying on their bellies in this shallow water.  The babies are in the middle of the group and are protected.
Is that big guy winking at me?
One of them stands up and you can see how broad they are.  Or maybe he just let off a fart.  They are stinky when they do that!
The hide of this one shows some tooth marks.  They can use their teeth/tusks to communicate and/or fight.
Jason on Shaka's Barge on our tour.  The pontoons just nosed into the mud or weed or grasses to see what was on the shore.
Our guide, Anthony, was great and told us lots of stories and information about the animals and their habits.  Here, he is showing us the tooth and tusks from a hippo.
These are hippo molars on a table.  They are about as big as my fist.
Jason and Charles looking at the hippo tusks.
Karen with the hippo tusk and a group lounging in the waters beside the boat.
The tusks are hollow most of the way to the tip.
The whiskery mouth of a hippo in the water
This is a water buck.  They have the toilet-seat-shaped white mark on their butts.  They have very pretty striped antlers, too.
Lots of things to watch out for if you get in the ocean waters near the park.
I walked across the beach to the Indian Ocean at the shoreside and this is what I saw.
Never walk in a hippo trail at night as you could get run over by a hippo.  And they can run faster than you can!
These tree roots were being sold as art along the road as we sped by.  Very cool, I think.  Would make a great coat rack, don't you think?
These wooden carved trays were hanging from the trees on the roadside as a way to display them for sale.
After a windy night, you can see how the dock buckled and sunk. The folks on the boats out there were stranded.
The dock and its power pedestal are under water.  This was the corner nearest the walkway to the exit gate.  Not going in or out just yet....
We learned early not to leave anything on the boat that could be moved.  And no food left out, as these monkeys come by each morning.  They are vervet monkies and the males have blue balls!  They got into some boats that left their hatches open, so we closed up at night and when we left.  Luckily, we have screens on all our openings so they couldn't get in anyway.
Talking across the sunken dock.  With the power still going to the sunken power supply, nobody wanted to get in the water to fix it.  The marina workers pumped the water out of the under-dock plastic floats repeatedly to try to refloat the dock.  The design of the marina sucks and it can't handle big wind with lots of boats. Eight or nine months of the year, there are only a handful of yachts here, so the owner doesn't do anything to bolster the docks.  The buckling happened several times while we were here, so we were very glad to be on the concrete wharf instead of in a slip.

Saturday, November 14, 2015

Boeni Bay and off to South Africa Oct 2015

Our last stop in Madagascar was Boeni Bay.  We'd heard this was a better place to sit and wait for a weather window and stage ourselves to cross the Mozambique Strait.  We had to finesse our way in through a myriad of sand channels and underwater sand bars, keeping an eye on the depth sounders in both hulls.  We just head for the deeper of the two and zig zag our way in along the waterway.  We crossed over a sand bar and dropped the anchor behind a penninsula to wait for the right winds and weather.
This mini sand cliff was on the shore and I rode in with folks off of Crystal Blues to investigate the shoreline.  Unfortunately, the biting flies (lunga lunga as a local called them) drove us back off the shore in just minutes, so we didn't get to explore very much.
 I'd seen the locals take water jugs to this place on the shore and they were splashing and bathing in the pool.  Once we got ashore, this was the pool.  Looks like a children's sand castle diggings, but the fresh water must pool up at low tide and the locals get their water here.  No reason to walk this far down the beach for more seawater.  The tide has broken through and the pool is now just a salty pit.
 At low tide, the notch in the shore from an old river was nearly dry and the exposed mud was green with growth.  We had to relocate YOLO before this low tide emptied out to prevent sitting on the bottom mud overnight.  Gotta pay attention to the tides when picking anchoring depths.
 The village on the shore at low tide.  Their canoes sit way up on the beach, but at high tide, they are right at the water's edge.
 The full moon coming up over a building cloud bank.  A lot of energy in those clouds and this Cape St. Andre on the western edge of Mozambique is renowned for it violent electrical storms and bad weather.  I can understand why when I see these clouds building up late in the day.
 Looking the other way at the same time, this is the sunset that was giving the sky its color.
And we're off to Mozzmbique or South Africa, depending on how far we can get before the weather turns bad on us.
We didn't have to wait long!  The first night out, we got caught in a nasty squall that spanked us pretty badly.  I awoke after 11pm to Jason's faint cries for me.  I went up to the cockpit to find sheeting rain and howling winds of about 40 knots and Jason yelling that he'd burned his hand badly.  Rope burn.  Trying to let out some of the mainsheet, it zinged right through his hand, shredding the skin and blistering his fingers and palm.  He couldn't see out of his glasses with the rain and I struggled to get the genoa furled by myself while he tried to control the boat.

The main sail was plastered against the spreaders and shroud and looked like a party firecracker--twisted into a cylinder with the ends sticking out.  Definitely something broken and/or torn and I wasn't sure it would come down.  I was soaked and shivering with cold and fright.  I only had a t-shirt on and had to get a jacket and shorts on to help any more.  We eventually got the sails down and the boat under control and heading in the right direction again.  It wasn't pretty.  Until we got daylight, we wouldn't know if we could continue or would have to head back into a Madagascar port.

The inspection in the morning light showed we had broken some battens.  It takes a lot of force to break a stick of fiberglass like this.  Looks like it exploded in two.

 Once we got through the worst of it Jason got some rest.  Note the bandage on his hand where it was badly rope burned.
 When we were evaluating the alternatives for continuing, this is what Jason came up with as Plan B--his bottle of scotch!  But at least the sail wasn't torn or shredded and we continued across the Strait.
 We did make it across the Mozambique Strait, using the current and the winds as much as we could.  A strong high-pressure system down at the southern cape of Africa promised to send big winds out of the south and we needed to seek shelter to wait out the weather.  We found protection at Bazaruto, Mozambique, a 25-mile long sand dune island that is a national marine park here. We found good anchorage here and waited out the storm for nearly five days.
 The island is still naked sand in some parts, with trees covering the lower parts that are in the lee of the wind most times.
 A local motorized fishing boat once the wind calmed down.  Most of the local boats didn't have engines; they still row here and the paddles have triangular shaped ends.  Very different from what we saw just across the Strait.  Most of the fishermen here rowed out their nets and the people on shore heaved them back in.  We had to leave before they surrounded the yachts with nets.
 Once we finally left Bazaruto, we headed out of a narrow, shallow exit at the south end, rather than backtrack the way we came in.  It would save us hours if we could cross the shallow spots, so we aimed for near high tide and followed some waypoints out that a fellow cruiser before us had relayed.
 The water got pretty skinny and we could see the bottom as we left.  That lovely aquamarine color of water over shallow white sand is pretty to look at but risky to cross when there are only a few feet of water below the boat and the swells are creating troughs that moved most of the water out.
 
 We hobby-horsed our way out over the shoals, through the swells and breaking waves and headed down the coast towards Richards Bay, South Africa.  There's only one hidey hole between us and Richards Bay now so we are watching the weather closely.
This cargo ship had the whole ocean to traverse, yet found it necessary to come within 1/2 mile of us to pass us and cross our bow.
 YOLO sitting comfortably  at anchor in Bazaruto after the winds were through.  Next stop:  South Africa!