Friday, February 5, 2016

YOLO in Hout Bay Jan 2016

Hout Bay lies between Simon's Town and Cape Town.  We used a weather window to get out of False Bay and Simon's Town as the strong winds make it impossible to get out until the wind abates.  We like Hout Bay as there are several places within walking distance to shop here and it seems to be a hopping tourist destination.  And we can catch a bus to Cape Town if needed.  Along one of the roads in town we spotted this sign.  The rare Leopard Toad is also the symbol for the cult wine "Splattered Toad" from Cape Point Wineries.  It's a nice quaff, too.
The steps the dock hands built for us to get off/on the boat at the marina in Hout Bay.  They lashed it together and to the finger pier so it wouldn't fall over when stepped on.  We just climb over the life lines and step down onto the box, then down on the lower step and then the dock.  Not something we'd want to do when inebriated.
The view from our salon door, looking back at the big fishing boats rafted up behind us.  They are pretty close and it was a tight turn to get into our dock position, but Jason did a fine job and the marina manager was impressed we didn't crash into the dock as so many others had done trying to fit into this space.
Looking across to the walkway to get out of the marina.

Looking down the dock at Hout Bay Marina.  Our section is pretty new, but there are some really old pieces of wood on the walkways elsewhere here.


 Looking out towards the entrance to the marina.  The wind and waves can howl and roll, but we are nice and quiet in here.
  The line we caught on the propeller as we came around the Cape of Good Hope.  It's still all twisted up on the prop. Jason got in with two wetsuits on to cut this off once we were safely docked in the marina.  A local loaned him a full wetsuit to wear for the task.

 A local fur seal lounges on one of the finger piers.

Ah, basking in the sun.  Several locals have trained seals to jump out of the water for fish pieces and they have them come onto the dock and pet them while folks take pictures.  Then they pass the hat for donations to pay for food.
 When the fishing boats come in, there is much jostling and honking in the bay as they all head for a spot to unload their catch.  Inside the fish building, there are men and women wielding knives and fish scalers and cutting up the fresh fish for sale or processing.  These heads were just outside the door as we walked past.


 Clouds blowing in over the beach at Hout Bay.  Clouds here are fun to watch as they form right in front of your eyes, much like stage smoke.


 This Beach House is being swallowed by the beach as sand dunes blow up alongside of it.  They can't keep the sidewalks here clear to walk on and the mini drifts form with every wind.  Front loaders try to take some of it away, but they dump it upwind on the backside of existing dunes so the wind finds it and moves it again.

 A side car motorcycle convoy passed us as we walked to the grocery store one day.  We've seen vintage motorcycles, Harleys and now these sidecars in tours around this country.
 The cloud forms and flows down the side of the mountains here.  Table Mountain has this same formation and they call it the tablecloth.  The cloth flows down the side when the wind blows.

 An old coffee roastery at a tourist spot at the mall here.  This historic building has been around for over 100 years.
  This square in the branches of a tree was said to represent two lovers who wanted to join their lives.  The branches met and stayed together, like the lovers.
This old boatshed is another historic building attracting tourists at the mall .  The original owner would only sell the building if the buyer gave him the same amount of corrugated tin along with the sales price so he could build himself another building.  The buyer knew it was an expensive deal, but he agreed and moved this building to this site and put it back together.

 Jason reading about the boatshed next to a new artistic gallery of African art.

 A seal swims by between YOLO and the fishing boats.  There are quite a few seals in the harbors and marinas here.

 Jason on the bow of Skebenga, the local yacht he joined for the Wednesday night races here.  They took line honors and first place for a change.

 Jason tying up the bow to the dock after the race.  Others were in sweat shirts and shorts, but Jason had his full foul weather gear on.  He went out and bought himself an orange rubber suit like the fishermen wear the next day  Now he'll look like a giant carrot.

 A look at up the hillside behind the marina at part of the town of Hout Bay.  Hout Bay covers the entire bay in this area and the workers have little to choose from in accommodation.  There are some very expensive homes here, even a real, newly-built brick castle.  You can just make out the brown brick of the castle up on the hill in the center. On the other side of town, a shantytown has sprung up that has grown up the hill to the national park.  I watched a fire burn from the top of the shanty town for over an hour a few days later.

 We walked around the shanty town to get to a feed store where Jason wanted to buy some lanolin.  He thinks the stuff may prevent barnacles from growing on the prop, so we walked about 6 km to find the place.  It was the only place I've seen mung beans since I got here, so I snapped some of them up.  They also had arnica gel, a substance good for rubbing into bruises or sore muscles to help them heal faster. We found lots of goodies at this farm store.
 This fluffy, scruffy looking chick wandered up to me.  He wanted to be petted.  A little girl had a fun time holding it in her hands while stroking these strange feathers.

 In the center you can see a brown and white turkey in full display of his plumage.  He was all puffed up and strutting in circles even though there was no female turkey in sight.  Only goats and ducks.  The goats jumped onto the roof of the little doghouse sheds and promptly began to nibble on the shingles.
 
When we finally went in to Cape Town to clear out of South Africa, we took the bus in and had to walk a long way to the port.  We then had to trek almost the entire length of the port to go to the Harbour Masters office on the 11th floor of the Port Control tower, much like an airport control tower, except the vessels are ships instead of airplanes.  Still, they run it like FAA, keeping watch over all the movements of the ships.  While walking along, we passed these gigantic spools of cables, probably meant to be submarine cables of some sort, but were awed by the size of the cable and spools.
 A view of Table Mountain and part of downtown Cape Town from the Port Control tower at the port.
 Looking another way towards more of the central business district and the waterfront of Cape Town.  A beautiful, sunny day with little wind.  Would have been a perfect day to go up on the cable car to the top of Table Mountain, but we were already pretty high up and had a grand view of the city and surrounds.
 Looking across the waterfront to the ocean towards the southeast.
 A big sailboat race was getting ready to commence and lots of yachts were coming out of the harbor and putting up their sails.
 Note the helipad on the front (or back?) of this ship.
 Once cleared out, we returned to Hout Bay to relax after the stressful shenanigans of Immigration.  They insisted we have a letter from the Harbour Master stating there was no availability for us in the harbour and we should be allowed to clear out even though our yacht was still in Hout Bay.  The official rule is that all yachts MUST come to the Royal Cape Yacht Club as that is the ONLY place where yachts can clear out of South Africa.  Except that the yacht club had no space for any more yachts, much less for catamarans!  We had a letter from the RCYC confirming there was no space for us. So, Immigrations tried to foist us off onto the Victorian and Albert Marina, a very expensive marina in the middle of downtown Cape Town, but we told them they didn't have space for us either.  Immigrations insisted that we get a letter from the Harbour Master, too, to make sure we couldn't come tie up along the container wharf to clear out.  They wouldn't stamp our passports until we produced the letter from the Harbour Master and sent us walking down to the Port Control tower to get it.  A very long walk on a hot sunny day.  Without the Immigration papers, Customs wouldn't give us our clearance papers that the next country would ask for.

The Security Guard in the Port Control tower had to wake up when we walked in.  She tried to call the Harbour Master's office, but claimed there was no answer.  She was pretty useless.  Luckily, a woman pilot walked in and we asked her for help.  She told the security guard what the correct number was to dial on the weekends and she talked to a Port Control person she knew and explained our predicament.  She took us up to the 11th floor and turned us over to her friend for help.  We all had to be breathalyzed just to get into the elevator as nobody under the influence is allowed in the building.

The Port Control lady scolded Immigration for sending us her way as they know the Harbour Master doesn't work weekends and she couldn't provide the letter.   She called the Harbour Master at home and explained the issue.  He sent her an email with an example of the letter we needed and she printed out a copy for us after changing the ship name and date to suit YOLO.  Without her help, we would've just left the county without clearing out as so many do; they can't tolerate the hassle and problems with trying to get to Cape Town.  Still, Immigrations tried to tell me he needed 'the original, not this copy' of the letter.  I told him it was the original and when he noticed the colored stamps, he agreed to accept it.  It had been printed in black and white and he was looking for the colored letterhead of an original.  We persevered and got our clearance from Immigration and moved twenty feet to the Customs window to get the final bit of paper we needed.  Nobody was there.

The security guy lounging in a chair in the area pointed at the number to call if they weren't available; he wouldn't let us use his phone and I wasn't going to use my few rand left on mine, so he pointed to a radio and said we could call them on the radio.  We got a garbled response that another man interpreted to say they'd be there in ten minutes.  We waited and were rewarded with exit papers.  Another yacht was clearing out on this Sunday, too, as the RCYC told them that as of Feb. 1, the rules would change and they'd be better off to clear out before then.  God help those who follow and don't have a clue what the new rules are!

We returned to Hout Bay on the bus.  The next morning, there was a school of jellyfish pulsing by the boat.  This one isn't really hanging onto that thing in the water; it is a partial reflection of a bit of metal from the boat above it.

 These jellyfish were anywhere from four inches to two feet in length.


Sunday, January 31, 2016

More Simon's Town and Botanical Gardens Jan 2016

I finally found a Zulu basket I liked that would fit my needs.  I ended up going back to the first shop by the penguins where I'd seen some I liked and they had a couple of new ones.  This is now my shell basket in the boat.
The diamond design represents the "shields of Shaka", a famous Zulu warrior.  The basket is grass wrapped in the colored reeds and rolled into the coils.  The coils are then woven and stitched together to form the basket.

The mountain of Glen Cairn, next to Simon's Town.  A fire on the train blew up the side of this hill in the high winds and scorched the side and came close to some homes.  We had a fire nearly every day while we were in Simon's Town.  The arsonists must've been very busy.
The bay along the shore where the road and train go into Fish Hoek, the next town where folks go to shop or catch the bus/train.  You can see the kelp in the surf.
There is a nice beach here, but in high winds, the sand blows across the railroad track and across the road and forms mini dunes along the road.  Much like snow blowing in a blizzard.

This old building is from 1903 in Simon's Town, just across from the train station.  The train was only running for two days before it caught fire and was out of commission again for a while.  A train ticket included a bus ride from Simon's Town to Fish Hoek to get the train while it was not running  way to ST.
A view of False Bay Yacht Club from the top of YOLO's Mast.  Jason is up taking pictures of the sheaves in the hopes we can get a rigger to replace one.  Getting anyone to work on the boat was like pulling teeth.  They have a very different business sense here....
A selfie of Jason at the top of the mast.  You can see how the smoke and soot has plastered itself to the front of the mast in the strong winds.
A calm day in the marina for a change.  The boat in the center is Saol Eile, our Irish friends.  The boat on the left has been shuffling from marina to marina without paying its bills, we heard.  They left this dock and headed for another port farther up the coast and the local yacht club here called the Marine Police and Sea Rescue folks and Customs to have it detained for non-paymentof its bills.  Whether they finally came up with the funds to pay or it was going to be sold at auction to clear the debts, we aren't sure.  We heard both stories.
Kids and teens playing in the waters near the shore in the marina.  The platform is there for them to  and jump off of.  The area here gets lots of use from kids.  The kelp covred rock in the foreground is another favorite climbing surface.  I like the blow-up swan toy.  The dad pulled it behind him with a couple of kids in it.  The rounded white walls are the BBQ/braai areas and the picnic areas where folks eat and drink when they come to the yacht club.  The Sea Rescue vessels are housed in the big garage-like structure next door.  You can see the orange end of one of the rescue boats.  They will come to your aid without cost here in South Africa--nice.
Men stoking the fires below their cast iron kettles at the Potjie Kos the yacht club members held for us cruisers.  The guy in the blue striped shirt is Mike, and we met him in the Caribbean years ago.  He lives here and keeps a boat in the marina, so we got to see him and Lynn a couple of times while we were here.

Jim and Jason waiting for the food to be ready.
These 3-legged cast iron pots were the feature of the day.  They set them on top of a fire and bubble up a stew-like mixture that may contain seafood, beef, chicken, lamb or veges.  Even bread is cooked over the fire in these things.  Every household seems to own one  The bowl on the right has cooked white corn maize meal in it, called pap, a staple here in South Africa.
The potjie kos (say poy-key.  Don't ask me how that spelling is that pronunciation!) food was delicious and we tried so many different dishes that we didn't need to cook the steaks we'd brought to throw on the barbeque grill.
Linda and Jim from Chesapeake at the potjie kos.
Bill and Tracy at the potjie kos, from Zephyr.
Ann and Chris from Silver Girl at the potjie kos.  They were the ones dismasted on the way from Chagos to Rodrigues, but they caught up with us again here in SA.
Ley and Neil from Crystal Blues at the potjie kos.
Karen enjoying a beer listening to the live musician play a Jimmy Buffet tune.
Jason taking a break inside the clubhouse at FBYC, chatting with other cruisers.
Paul from Thankful and Paraic from Saol Eile enjoy a quieter moment in the bar upstairs at the yacht club.
More cruisers enjoying the party before heading off to their boats at other marinas.
This seal was just snoozing while swimming along between the boats at the dock in the marina.


He'd bump into a boat and just roll or flip over and carry on snoozing.  His back flippers as he does a somersault to head in another direction.
You can see the bubbles as he exhales while sleeping at the surface.
He'd come right up to the dock, close enough to touch if you wanted to wake him.
A helicopter landing on a navy ship across the marina in the naval yard.
The flowers currently in bloom here in South Africa, on display at the entrance of the Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens, one of the oldest botanical gardens in existence.  The flowers are from fynbos, proteas, Ericas and such.
 This huge tree has a sprawling set of trunks that cover a huge area for a single tree.  It is considered one of their Centenarian trees and is so marked.
 A closer view of the tree.
 More trunks come out from the other side, too.
 A suspended bridge that takes you along the tree tops to get a different view of the gardens.
 Karen on the tree top bridge.  That railing was super hot the day we walked around.
 Dinosaur sculptures are arranged in one area of the gardens.  These are big, life-sized metal sculptures.
 The dinos blend in well in these cycads.
 This one could be munching some of these bushes.
A big aloe tree.  The aloe plants we use for burns also grow into trees here.
 A Woods Cycad, the last known specimen of its kind.

The explanation about the cycad behind the fence here.  Unique and nearly extinct, this is the only one left.
 A pterodactyl sculpture 'flies' through the gardens.  I always liked this dinosaur.
 A golden breasted sunseeker sticks its beak into the flowers in the botanical gardens.
 A side view of the pretty bird.  He shimmered in wonderful color in these flowers.
 You can see the brilliant color of the breast of this bird here.
Looking out the windshield at a helicopter carrying a bag of seawater to dump on a fire on a hillside as we returned to Simon's Town.  The hills are too rugged to get firefighting machines to the fires but the winds whip the fire so quickly up the hills and across the land that they must spend the money to try to stop them any way they can.  There were several helicopters flying water up the hill and dumping it onto the fire.  It's a shame that so much of the countryside has been burned to a blackened scorch field.  The strong winds spread the damage so fast, too.  And they say most of it was from arsonists.